楚雄师范学院学报 ›› 2023, Vol. 38 ›› Issue (4): 98-108.

• 食学研究 • 上一篇    下一篇

川江船帮组织构成和川菜流派分帮演进

石自彬1,2   

  1. 1.重庆商务职业学院 渝菜烹饪研究院,重庆 401331;
    2.重庆美食文化发展研究会,重庆 401121
  • 收稿日期:2023-02-28 出版日期:2023-07-20 发布日期:2023-09-22
  • 作者简介:石自彬(1980–)男,重庆商务职业学院副教授,南充科技职业学院客座教授,研究方向为菜系理论、食学食育。
  • 基金资助:
    四川省教育厅高校人文社会科学重点研究基地川菜发展研究中心项目“美食旅游对重庆城市形象塑造研究”(CC18G10)

On Chuangjiang River Shipping Factions and Evolution of Schools of Sichuan Cuisine

SHI Zibin1,2   

  1. 1. Chongqing Culinary Research Institute, Chongqing Business Vocational College, Chongqing 401331;
    2. Chongqing Culinary Culture Development Research Association, Chongqing 401121
  • Received:2023-02-28 Online:2023-07-20 Published:2023-09-22

摘要: 四川宜宾至湖北宜昌段长江被称为川江。清朝中叶随着川江木船航运业兴起,并形成了大河帮、下河帮、小河帮等三个地缘性木船船帮组织,合称为“三河船帮”。20世纪80年代的川菜理论文化书籍在对川菜流派进行划分时,开始陆续出现借用“三河船帮”的帮名来命名川菜流派。但这种划分方法缺乏理论支撑,且不同的学者有不同的划分法,以致形成多种说法,不利于川菜的发展。新时代的川菜,应与时俱进发展,当以泸菜、蓉菜、雅菜等各地方区域菜系作为其风味流派划分的标准。

关键词: 长江, 船帮, 川菜, 流派, 帮口

Abstract: The part of the Yangtze River between Yibin, Sichuan Province and Yichang, Hubei Province is conventionally referred to as the Chuangjiang River. In the middle Qing Dynasty, or around the 18th century, shipping with wooden ships rose as a business here and players of this business soon divided into three regional factions whose names were borrowed in the 1980s by books on Sichuan cuisine to name the different regional culinary schools. Classifying culinary culture this way, however, is far from well grounded and scholars disagree, resulting in a variety of contending classification theories and names. This impedes development of Sichuan cuisine in general. Sichuan cuisine classification, too, needs to advance with the time. Instead of classifying and naming the dishes after the shipping factions, it is much more reasonable to do so after the names of their hometowns, such as Luzhou cuisine, Chengdu cuisine and Ya’an cuisine.

Key words: Yangtze River, shipping faction, Sichuan cuisine, school, gang

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