楚雄师范学院学报 ›› 2025, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (2): 100-105.

• 中华文化研究 • 上一篇    下一篇

《皇清职贡图》所绘倮㑩服饰的形制与文化特征

黄金东1, 张彦杰2, 李梓玉3, 李章权4   

  1. 1.中央民族大学 图书馆, 北京 100081;
    2.四川文化产业职业学院 艺术设计学院, 四川 成都 610000;
    3.云南财经大学 金融学院, 云南 昆明 650221;
    4.四川省甘孜藏族自治州财政局, 四川 康定 626000
  • 收稿日期:2024-12-06 出版日期:2025-03-20 发布日期:2025-05-08
  • 作者简介:黄金东(1981―),男,历史学博士,中央民族大学图书馆研究馆员、博士生导师,研究方向为南方民族交往交流交融史与历史文献学。
  • 基金资助:
    北京市社会科学基金重大项目“北京地区馆藏清代南方民族图册的整理与研究”(22ZDA08);中央民族大学“学术团队引领计划”项目“中国历代职贡图整理与研究”(2024XSYL08)

A Study on the Form and Cultural Characteristics of Traditional Costumes of the Luo People in Illustrated Imperial Tribute Bearers of the Qing

HUANG Jingdong1, ZHANG Yanjie2, LI Ziyu3, LI Zhangquan4   

  1. 1. Library, Minzu University of China, Beijing, 100081;
    2. College of Art and Design, Sichuan Vocational College of Cultural Industry, Chengdu, Sichuan Province, 610000;
    3. School of Finance, Yunnan University of Finance and Economics, Kunming, Yunnan Province 650221;
    4. Finance Bureau, Ganzi Zang Autonomous Prefecture, Kangding, Sichuan Province 626000
  • Received:2024-12-06 Online:2025-03-20 Published:2025-05-08

摘要: 《皇清职贡图》绘有清中前期云、贵、川边等地17种倮㑩支系人物图像,每幅图像上配有说文。这些图文蕴含着丰富而具体的倮㑩服饰文化信息,主要表现为喜挽髻、裹帕、耳缀铜环、短衣、披毡、褶皱短裙、跣足等特征。这些绚丽多彩的倮㑩服饰一方面表现了对自然环境的适应及便于劳作的需要,另一方面反映了清代倮㑩生活区社会发展不平衡和男女分工存在差异的社会现实。《皇清职贡图》所绘倮㑩服饰不仅是倮㑩先民审美的集中体现,更是清中前期倮㑩社会从外化向中心的国家认同过渡的形象表征。

关键词: 《皇清职贡图》, 倮㑩, 服饰文化, 表征

Abstract: Illustrated Imperial Tribute Bearers of the Qing features captioned portraits of 17 subgroups of the Luo peoples in the border areas of Yunnan, Guizhou, and Sichuan provinces in the early and middle Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). These portraits, in turn, feature traditional Luo costumes, mainly including hi-hats, wraps, bronze earrings, short coats, shawls, pleated skirts and bare feet. These colorful Luo costumes show the needs of the Luo peoples to adapt to the natural environment for convenience in labor on the one hand and, on the other hand, reflect facts of the Luo society at that time, such as imbalanced social development across different areas and work division between the sexes. Costumes depicted herein represent not only the aesthetics philosophy of the Luo peoples, but also demonstrate their social change process characterized by nationality identity in the early and middle Qing Dynasty.

Key words: Illustrated Imperial Tribute Bearers of the Qing, subgroup of the Luo peoples, costume culture, characterization

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