楚雄师范学院学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 36 ›› Issue (1): 15-20.

• 食学研究 • 上一篇    下一篇

中国菜品文化研究的误识、误区与饮食文化场——再谈“菜系”术语的理解与使用

赵荣光   

  1. 浙江工商大学 中国饮食文化研究所,浙江 杭州 310012
  • 出版日期:2021-03-25 发布日期:2021-03-25

Misunderstandings and Twist in Chinese Cuisine Culture Research and the Food Cultural Field Theory — Second Thought on Interpretation and Usage of the Term “Cuisine Family”

ZHAO Rongguang   

  1. Chinese Culinary Culture Institute, Zhejiang Gongshang University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province 310012
  • Online:2021-03-25 Published:2021-03-25

摘要: 20世纪80年代以来的中国菜品文化研究伊始就囿于“中国烹饪世界第一”的成见,研究整体陷入误区,影响了广大餐饮人的思维。“菜系”的准确含义应当是具有相近风味与风格菜品的类属,过度解读会产生误判。“以地名菜”理论强调自然与社会文化生态的地域依托是菜品文化的基础与本质特征。“以地名菜”涵盖了地名(菜的地籍属性)、地域自然与社会(食材、习俗、族群等)要素、地域的区块级次性(内部的差异与区别)。“省籍名菜”有四大理由根据,在相当程度上暗合“以地名菜”的理念与原则。“中国菜”是本土华人以地产原料、传统烹饪方式与调味品加工制作的大众积久习惯食用的菜品总称。中国菜的审美理论方法是质、香、色、形、器、味、适、序、境、趣“十美原则”,助餐具的最佳选择是中华筷。菜品文化是“饮食文化场”的产物,“饮食文化场”是催生促进社会餐饮生活发展各种文化形态的中心城市生存机制空间。

关键词: 以地名菜, 菜系, 中国菜, 菜品文化, 群体成见, 情结误区, 饮食文化场

Abstract: Since the 1980s, Chinese cuisine culture research has been trapped in a self-important but self-confining notion of “Chinese cooking being the world's best”. An appropriate definition of “cuisine family” should be roughly “category of dishes of similar flavor and style”, over interpretation of which entails mis-judgment. Naming dishes after places is a theory that emphasizes natural and social ecology as the basic and core features of one particular cuisine culture, a practice that demonstrates the place of origin, natural and social elements (ingredients, customs and ethnics) and differences among the areas in question. Well based on four reasons, naming dishes after provinces is a practice in agreement to the previous practice to some extent in both reasoning and principle. The term “Chinese cuisine” denotes a variety of categories of dishes by native Chinese, in Chinese methods, from Chinese materials and with Chinese seasonings to delight the long-accustomed Chinese palate. The aesthetic doctrine of Chinese cuisine is to follow the Ten-merit Principlequality, fragrance, color, shape, tableware, taste, appropriateness, procedure, environment, and enjoyment. The best instrument for serving and eating Chinese food is chopsticks. Cuisine culture is a result of the theory of food cultural field theory–the survival space for central cities that promote the food service industry and cultural diversity.

Key words: naming dish after place, cuisine family, Chinese cuisine, cuisine culture, collective misunderstanding, mis-complex, food culture field theory

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