楚雄师范学院学报 ›› 2022, Vol. 37 ›› Issue (1): 126-130.

• 食学研究 • 上一篇    下一篇

试析李调元《函海》对乾嘉后清代川菜的实际影响

朱多生   

  1. 四川铁道职业学院 经济管理学院,四川 成都 611732
  • 收稿日期:2021-10-21 出版日期:2022-01-20 发布日期:2022-03-08
  • 作者简介:朱多生(1976–),男,四川铁道职业学院副教授,研究方向为四川饮食文化。
  • 基金资助:
    四川省哲学社会科学重点基地、四川省高校人文社科重点研究基地“川菜发展研究中心”项目(CC14SW07)研究成果

On Effect of Xing Yuan Lu of Han Hai on the Sichuan Cuisine after the Turn of the 19th Century

ZHU Duosheng   

  1. Department of Economics and Management, Sichuan Railway College, Chengdu, Sichuan Province 611732
  • Received:2021-10-21 Online:2022-01-20 Published:2022-03-08

摘要: 《川菜烹饪事典》《川菜——全国山河一片红》、扬州大学公开课《中国菜系文化》第三课“川菜饮食文化”都认为《醒园录》对川菜的影响很大。笔者将论证作为《函海》庞大体系中几万字的《醒园录》对川菜的实际影响实微的结论。第一,清代四川人口不到1%的识字率,决定《醒园录》内容传播十分狭窄;第二,分析李化楠家族在绵州一地的影响和《函海》的刊行情况,《醒园录》的影响地域和范围十分有限。综合这些因素,可以得到《函海·醒园录》对川菜影响十分有限的结论。

关键词: 《函海》, 《醒园录》, 川菜, 影响

Abstract: Many books, such as Sichuan Cooking Encyclopedia, Sichuan Cuisine-the Country Is All Red, and some university courses, such as Sichuan Food Culture of Yangzhou University, all hold the idea that Xing Yuan Lu had enormous effect on Sichuan cuisine. This view is far from factual, argues the author, on the ground that this book, which is in fact only a tiny part of the voluminous Han Hai, had little influence on the Sichuan cuisine. Firstly, in the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911), less than 1% of the people in Sichuan were literate, meaning that Xing Yuan Lu was narrowly read. Secondly, an analysis of the influence of Li Hua’nan and his family in Mianzhou (modern Mianyang) and the publication of Han Hai indicates that Xing Yuan Lu only influenced a small area geographically. To sum up, it is reasonable to conclude that Xing Yuan Lu of Han Hai had only limited effect on the Sichuan cuisine.

Key words: Han Hai, Xing Yuan Lu, Sichuan cuisine, influence

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