楚雄师范学院学报 ›› 2020, Vol. 35 ›› Issue (2): 1-12.

• 食学研究 •    下一篇

20世纪上半叶中国的“卫生餐法”讨论与施行——伍连德对中华餐桌文明历史进步的贡献

赵荣光   

  1. 浙江工商大学中国饮食文化研究所,杭州 310012
  • 收稿日期:2020-02-25 出版日期:2020-03-20 发布日期:2020-12-25
  • 作者简介:赵荣光(1948―),男,浙江工商大学中国饮食文化研究所所长,教授,亚洲食学论坛主席,研究方向为历史学、食学。

Argument and Practice of China’s “Approach to Sanitary Dining” in the First Half of the 20th Century-Wu Lien-Teh’s Contribution to the Historical Progress of China’s Table Manners

ZHAO Rongguang   

  1. Chinese Culinary Culture Institute, Zhejiang Gongshang University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province 310012
  • Received:2020-02-25 Online:2020-03-20 Published:2020-12-25

摘要: 1910年11月至1911年4月的东北鼠疫,将中国人食用野生动物习俗与人手一筷聚餐共食传统进食方式的弊病尖锐地暴露在世人面前。以1915年伍连德《卫生餐法》倡议为标志,随即引发了持续近30年的“卫生餐法”讨论。否定人手一筷一戳到底的中国传统“共食”方式弊病和改变饮食卫生的陋习,成全社会共识。旨在避免疾病传染的多种进餐改革试行方法被提出并实行,讨论集中并影响最大的是分食、公筷(公匙)法、双筷法三种方式。其中双筷制进食法为认同最集中,且施行自幼稚园至大学的各类各级学校、家庭并社会聚餐各种场合最为普遍。卫生餐法的讨论与施行,扩展为社会公共卫生、传染病防御、餐桌文明、学校教育、国民身心修养等广泛领域。但是,由于历史条件的限制,讨论与施行被时政形势阻断。2002年SARS事件再次引发了人们对中国式传统“共食”方式的质疑,2019年底爆发的新冠肺炎疫情,更使拷问炙及肤肌。

关键词: 伍连德, “卫生餐法”, 双筷制, 餐桌文明

Abstract: The pneumonic plague, which spread over Northeast China between November, 1910 and April, 1911, exposed the drawbacks of the traditional Chinese eating habits with chopsticks and their consumption of wild animals. Since Wu Lien-Teh advocated the “Approach to Sanitary Dining” in 1915, China had witnesed a social argument on this topic for nearly 30 years. It has become a common sense that the traditional Chinese way of eating together with each one’s only chopsticks is hazardous to hygiene and must be changed. In order to prevent infectious diseases, people got involved in the discussion of reforming the dining habits. The argument focused on three main proposals: 1) serving and eating separately; 2) serving a pair of chopsticks or a spoon on each course; and 3) serving two pairs of chopsticks for each diner. It was found that the two-pair-chopstick method was agreed to by the most people and thus most applied in environments like kindergartens, schools and colleges. In addition, this method was widely practiced in households and at diners. The “Approach to Sanitary Dining” discussions and implementations expanded into a wide range of fields including social public health, infectious disease prevention, table manners, school education, and self-cultivation. However, due to the historical limitations, this social movement was discontinued by the political situation at that time. The SARS in 2002 once again triggered the argument on the same topic. In the end of 2019, the outbreak of coronavirus made the argument even sharper.

Key words: Wu Lien-teh, approach to sanitary dining, two-pair-chopstick system, table manners

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