楚雄师范学院学报 ›› 2022, Vol. 37 ›› Issue (2): 99-106.

• 食学研究 • 上一篇    下一篇

美国第一本英文中餐食谱书研究

李俊灵   

  1. 北京外国语大学 国际中国文化研究院,北京 100089
  • 收稿日期:2022-01-04 出版日期:2022-04-26 发布日期:2022-04-26
  • 作者简介:李俊灵(1981—),女,北京外国语大学国际中国文化研究院博士研究生,研究方向为比较饮食文化与饮食传播。
  • 基金资助:
    中央高校基本科研业务专项资金项目“20世纪上半叶美国英文中餐食谱书的话语谱系考察”(20225X010)

A Study of the First English Chinese Cookbook in the United States

LI Junling   

  1. International Institute of Chinese Studies, Beijing Foreign Studies University, Beijing 100089
  • Received:2022-01-04 Online:2022-04-26 Published:2022-04-26

摘要: 1911年,时任《芝加哥洋际报》美容健康栏编辑杰希·露丝·诺顿在底特律自费出版了《北美厨房中餐》一书,从而成为美国乃至西方第一本系统介绍中餐的食谱书,该书在文本形式层面,实现了由零星介绍到系统描述中餐的突破;在文本历史层面,成为体现中餐在美国传播轨迹的一个重要节点,尤为重要的是,在当时对中餐充满敌意的氛围中,迈出了正视中餐的第一步。结合诺顿的生平经历,分析其撰书的缘由,发现与其责编栏目及工作环境不无关系。同时,结合文本注重“正宗中餐”的特征,从中餐食材、食谱菜单、烹饪方法及餐桌装饰方面探讨了《北美厨房中餐》力图达到“正宗中餐”的主要方法。而对隐于这些方法之后的“异质”中餐形象,也做了仔细辨析。该书凸出异质、正宗,是与西方在此之前的中国饮食认知有着一脉相承的联系。是研究中食西渐历程的重要参考文本。

关键词: 英文中餐食谱书, 中餐认知, 正宗, 异质

Abstract: In 1911, Jessie Louise Nolton, the editor of the Beauty and Health column of The Chicago Inter-Ocean, published Chinese Cookery in the Home Kitchen at her own expense in Detroit, which became the first recipe book systematically introducing Chinese food in the United States and the West. At the textual level, it has achieved a breakthrough from sporadic introduction to systematic description of Chinese food; at the textual historical level, it has become an important node reflecting the trajectory of Chinese food in the United States; and what's more important, this book took the first symbolic step to appreciate Chinese food amidst the hostility to Chinese food at that time. Combined with her life experience, it is found that her writing the cookbook is related to her job and work environment. In the meantime, a discussion is held on the main methods to achieve authentic Chinese food in terms of Chinese food material, recipe and menu, cooking method and table decoration. The otherness of the Chinese food image has been carefully analyzed, and it is pointed out that the otherness and authenticity of Chinese food highlighted in the book are in the same line with the Western perception of Chinese food long before this book. The book has been circulating for nearly 110 years, and it is an important reference text for studying the process of Chinese food spreading to the west.

Key words: English Chinese Cookbook, cognition of Chinese food, authenticity, otherness

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