楚雄师范学院学报 ›› 2023, Vol. 38 ›› Issue (1): 41-52.

• 食学研究 • 上一篇    下一篇

近代以来云南火腿的几种常见吃法

朱和双   

  1. 楚雄师范学院 学报编辑部,云南 楚雄 675000
  • 收稿日期:2022-10-11 出版日期:2023-01-20 发布日期:2023-03-29
  • 作者简介:朱和双(1976―),男,法学(民族学)博士,楚雄师范学院学报编辑部副研究员,研究方向为历史人类学、“滇学”概念史与滇省稀见汉籍的整理。

Common Eating and Cooking Methods of Yunnan Ham in the Modern Times

ZHU Heshuang   

  1. Journal Editorial Office, Chuxiong Normal University, Chuxiong, Yunnan Province 675000
  • Received:2022-10-11 Online:2023-01-20 Published:2023-03-29

摘要: 从明初开始,云南各地的汉族移民从江南、江西一带传承而来的火腿腌制法就面临着创新的挑战,配合着地域间的辅料差异,滇味的特征开始显现。近代以来云南各地的火腿制品数不胜数,比如火腿月饼、火腿罐头、火腿粑粑、火腿粽等,特别是昆明的“火腿四两饦”最为驰名,销路较旺。到民国时期,宣威火腿罐头畅销国内外,赢得了较稳固的声誉。除将整只火腿按部位切割用于蒸、煮、炒、煎、炸、炖、烩、卤、烤外,汽锅鸡、金钱片腿、蜜腊火腿、锅贴乌鱼、火腿夹乳饼、烧火腿等地方菜肴获得了食客们的认同。时至今日,云南火腿的常见吃法仍没有根本性的改变,时令蔬菜、山珍野味和水产品等都能与之搭配。

关键词: 近代以来, 云南火腿, 糕饼, 罐头, 菜肴, 便餐

Abstract: Since late 14th century when ham was first introduced to Yunnan from the prosperous provinces at lower reaches of the Yangtze River, its preparation method has been exposed to challenges presented by subsidiary seasonings unique to Yunnan. As a result, Yunnan-flavor ham became a local specialty. In the modern times, ham products - moon cakes, canned ham, ham cakes, ham zongzi, etc. - emerged in large variety in Yunnan, among which ham siliang tuo of Kunming is the most known and best sold ham snack. In the period of the Republic of China (1912–1949), canned Xuanwei ham established its national fame and even won considerable international market share. Besides dishes using purely ham cooked in different ways, such as steaming, roasting, boiling, fast and slow frying with and without oil, dipped or not dipped in seasonings, ham is also used as a subsidiary ingredient with chicken, pears, fish, diary products and other foods, again in a large variety of different cooking methods. As time goes by, these cooking methods have stabilized and the only changing factors involved are the seasonal vegetables, the local delicacies and sea foods to go with it.

Key words: modern time, Yunnan Province, cake, canned ham, dish, snack

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