楚雄师范学院学报 ›› 2022, Vol. 37 ›› Issue (5): 101-110.

• 食学研究 • 上一篇    下一篇

汉籍所见“宣威火腿”腌制的地方性知识

朱和双   

  1. 楚雄师范学院 学报编辑部,云南 楚雄 675000
  • 收稿日期:2022-06-05 出版日期:2022-09-20 发布日期:2022-11-16
  • 作者简介:朱和双(1976―),男,法学(民族学)博士,楚雄师范学院学报编辑部副研究员,研究方向为历史人类学、“滇学”概念史与滇省稀见汉籍的整理。

Local Knowledge about Preparation of Xuanwei Ham in Mandarin Chinese Documents

ZHU Heshuang   

  1. Journal Editorial Office, Chuxiong Normal University, Chuxiong, Yunnan Province 675000
  • Received:2022-06-05 Online:2022-09-20 Published:2022-11-16

摘要: 宣威火腿的闻名及其销路的拓展要晚于滇西地区畅销的鹤庆火腿,这在清代汉籍中能找到足够的证据。滇越铁路的修筑和腌制法的改良,使宣威火腿迅速占领了滇省内外的火腿市场。民国时期,宣威火腿与著名的金华火腿、如皋火腿形成了激烈的竞争。随着罐头业的兴起和地方工商业的发展,宣威县境先后出现了上百家经营火腿的大小工商户以及规模较大的火腿腌制经销商,强劲的“宣威火腿罐头”制造业对原料的需求量带动了火腿制法的进一步改良。另一方面,宣威及其邻县的广大农村仍然坚守着传统的火腿制法。到中华人民共和国成立以后,宣威火腿腌制发酵配套的各种措施又得到进一步的完善。

关键词: 滇省特产, 宣威火腿, 传统制法, 地方性知识, 历史情境

Abstract: Fame and market expansion of Xuanwei Ham were in fact preceded by those of Heqing Ham that had been well sold in west Yunnan, a fact adequately proved by Mandarin Chinese documents of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Completion of the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway and improved preparation technique enabled it to rapidly seize the market in and out of Yunnan Province. In the period of Republic of China (1912-1949), Xuanwei Ham began to compete for bigger market share with other national brands, such as Jinhua Ham and Rugao Ham. Emergence of canned food and development of local industry and commerce gave birth to more than one hundred ham factories of varying sizes and bigger distributors in Xuanwei County alone and their strong demand for raw materials triggered further innovation of ham preparation technique. On the other side of the coin, the millennium-old preparation procedures were still followed in the rural areas of Xuanwei and other counties. Both the preparation technique and matching fermentation measures were further improved after the founding of the People’s Republic in 1949.

Key words: Yunnan specialty, Xuanwei Ham, traditional preparation technique, local knowledge, historical situation

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